| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Th0mas25 |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 21:02:20
I'm currently in the middle of restoring 2 vintage kits. The shells and hardware have come up quite nicely so far, but on both kits the screws and washers inside the shells have been REALLY rusty... yon dusty, furry rusty way!
Previously I'd have given the washers etc. a wipe down or a rub with some wire-wool but these are soooo bad (despite the interiors of the shells, at least on one of the kits, being absolutely mint!).
Any suggestions? |
| 32 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Mcmaul |
Posted - 08/10/2012 : 00:36:39
48 hours in clear vinegar!! |
| Captain Bubble |
Posted - 07/10/2012 : 09:02:45
Chortle! |
| gdrumfoot |
Posted - 07/10/2012 : 04:58:53
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Bubble
Going through this process big time right now: my Dad and his 3 brothers collected quite a lot of 1920s and 1930s Hornby tinplate clockwork trains, rolling stock, signals, platforms, level crossings, people, luggage etc., but it all got thrown out when their Mum died and the house was cleared. But two weekends ago we discovered on loco in a box of books. I had to make new pistons and connecting rods, plus the connector for the rest of the train, bought a tender and brake van on eBay, and a friend gave me a load of rusty old track which was soaked in 3 in 1 oil spray for 3 days then wire brushed on my pillar drill. Jade oil will be next, but first I am making the camera wagon to film a ride across my workshop, winding around drums, kits, ukuleles etc.
Keep this up and you may nick the West Coast Mainline contract off Virgin |
| swampy |
Posted - 04/10/2012 : 07:55:15
hello coltondunn, welcome aboard! |
| coltondunn |
Posted - 04/10/2012 : 06:29:18
I think scoobydude gave a very good suggestion for cleaning rust. I have always use this method to clean my wheel bolt & screws.....
round vinyl caps | electrical conduit clamps |
| teethmeister |
Posted - 01/06/2012 : 10:29:27
With the vinegar or diesel thing, you guys a missing a trick. Put the parts in a large sturdy jam jar along with the chosen fluid and a load of tacks (tacks are best, small nails will do). Shake like it's going out of fashion. Leave to soak. Repeat.
Then of course you get the fun of decanting off the bulk of the cleaning fluid and picking through the metal salad for your parts ;-) |
| Captain Bubble |
Posted - 01/06/2012 : 08:47:02
Going through this process big time right now: my Dad and his 3 brothers collected quite a lot of 1920s and 1930s Hornby tinplate clockwork trains, rolling stock, signals, platforms, level crossings, people, luggage etc., but it all got thrown out when their Mum died and the house was cleared. But two weekends ago we discovered on loco in a box of books. I had to make new pistons and connecting rods, plus the connector for the rest of the train, bought a tender and brake van on eBay, and a friend gave me a load of rusty old track which was soaked in 3 in 1 oil spray for 3 days then wire brushed on my pillar drill. Jade oil will be next, but first I am making the camera wagon to film a ride across my workshop, winding around drums, kits, ukuleles etc. |
| Soporif |
Posted - 31/05/2012 : 21:54:25
Brown sauce. |
| Th0mas25 |
Posted - 29/05/2012 : 03:28:39
This thread took off more than I expected, thank you all for the tips!
I tried vinegar in the end, and it worked quite well, it may have worked better if I'd left it all in overnight but I'm an impatient bugger and so the parts got 4-5 hours in the bucket before I took them out, rubbing with some wire wool as I did so, then gave them a spray of WD40 and rubbed down in an old towel. Certainly all the parts look a LOT better than they did 
Again thanks for the the advice, plenty more options to try in future! |
| Henry Piper |
Posted - 28/05/2012 : 17:46:33
quote:
Originally posted by Jon Petersen
After de-rusting (I was given a 5-litre can of some product specifically meant for rustremoving before painting, based on phophoric acid), I usually lay the large Premier washers on a newspaper and spray with a silver spray, first thing after dismantlig the kit so the paint has maximum time to cure and harden.
Works fine.
Jon
I wouldnt want to touch ANYTHING involving Phosphoric acid, it has a nasty tendency to attack flesh and can cause very unpleasant burns. |
| Jon Petersen |
Posted - 28/05/2012 : 16:31:41
After de-rusting (I was given a 5-litre can of some product specifically meant for rustremoving before painting, based on phophoric acid), I usually lay the large Premier washers on a newspaper and spray with a silver spray, first thing after dismantlig the kit so the paint has maximum time to cure and harden.
Works fine.
Jon |
| Rhythm and Blooze |
Posted - 27/05/2012 : 21:07:06
Another trick is to,put the all in an old pan, put a dishwasher tablet an bring to the boil. Turn off when just about boiling and leave to cool
Imwa tepted to add serve with salted mashed potatoes but decided not to in the end
As always, dry things thoroughly. In an old towel In the airing cupboard overnight is a good idea |
| capt.wierd |
Posted - 20/05/2012 : 16:39:46
I wouldn't use Coke, maybe soda water, same carbonic acid, the active ingredient or white vinegar, acetic acid. In fact, you should be able to buy both from the chemist.
AND, Bronze wool does wonders for loosening the loose stuff without taking off the chrome. Has anyone ever found bronze wool over there?? marine stores, maybe??
I forgot to put a couple of packs in with your hoops a couple years ago, Fen, geez I completely forgot. |
| FenTiger |
Posted - 20/05/2012 : 16:23:09
I use this (undiluted, as suggested by our Skinless) to deal with the rust: http://www.hammerite.co.uk/guide/rust_remover_dip.jsp
Plasti-kote make a clear metal sealer spray (product code 1300), which should stop any further corrosion.
|
| animal.22 |
Posted - 19/05/2012 : 20:08:43
A bullet case tumbler with dry sharp sand may do the trick. |
| Johnny |
Posted - 18/05/2012 : 13:38:19
Thanks guys
I have never heard of Jade Oil before but a quick rummage online suggests it may be useful stuff to have around for these kind of jobs. Cheers Capt! |
| swampy |
Posted - 18/05/2012 : 12:47:42
vaseline? |
| Captain Bubble |
Posted - 18/05/2012 : 12:16:55
WD40 is good for a while but gradually evaporates, gets absorbed and/or wears off. Enamel paint lasts well, or if you want to keep the natural metal colour of the parts use Clear Acrylic Metal Lacquer or Jade Oil, both of which can be obtained from Axminster. Jade Oil is used by a lot of Museums to preserve metal items but with a natural low shine look, it is not as permanent as lacquer, but if the parts are inside the drum and not handled much it will last well. |
| Prog |
Posted - 17/05/2012 : 17:17:06
A squirt of WD-40 will help to keep things shiny. |
| drumboy1 |
Posted - 17/05/2012 : 16:55:34
Clear nail varnish works ok. It's also good for stopping the screws loosening. (And you can get it off with remover if you ever want to.)
J. |
| Johnny |
Posted - 17/05/2012 : 16:05:08
Could I be permitted to take this a ba' hair off topic? I'm also in the midst of a refurbishment and have my own de-rusting of screws/ washers to do. Once I've restored them with such handy household products is there something else readily available I could dip them in to protect them from surface rust reappearing?
Cheers
Johnny |
| drumboy1 |
Posted - 17/05/2012 : 10:54:20
I've just finished doing exactly this to an old Soundwave kit. I used fine sandpaper. You'd think it'd knacker then but it doesn't and they came up really nicely!
J. |
| Captain Bubble |
Posted - 17/05/2012 : 08:49:55
Diesel, vinegar and Coke are all excellent for cleaning things, the first two can also be consumed, but only in moderate quantities. I do NOT recommend vinegar or coke on aluminium or alloys such as Monkey metal/zamac/mazac/pot metal, so do not put cast parts in vinegar or coke. |
| Prog |
Posted - 17/05/2012 : 07:57:28
Here's my famous before and after vinegar photo.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u242/Prog_UK/Beverley/washers.jpg
|
| swampy |
Posted - 17/05/2012 : 07:44:57
I use vingar |
| Th0mas25 |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 23:12:45
I'll try Coke aswell Steveh, I remember in primary school doing the 'tooth in a saucer of coke for a few days' experiment. Corrosive stuff indeed  Never thought to try it on metalwork though. Cheers! |
| steveh |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 22:48:03
Coca cola 
or there are a cpl of products sold in auto parts stores for surface rust removal.
Good lucka ! |
| Th0mas25 |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 22:14:33
Diesel, vinegar... I wasn't sure but those are the kind of answers I was hoping for, something I'd already have around the house. I'll try both of those, thanks guys
Unkle Kev, if it was just normal wee washers I would replace them, but they're the bigger slotted Premier washers, also the backing plates for spurs and floor tom holders etc....
Andywilson... wrong thread I think. try the vintage section  |
| Prog |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 22:01:21
Vinegar! |
| Unkle Kev |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 21:33:32
Rusty nuts, ring, guffaw, etc.
Replace them. |
| andywilson |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 21:23:38
Hi as regards grommets the recent thread "Fitting 'P' badges to a newer prem" will guide you to the tools etc. It might be found under the following link http://www.mikedolbear.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=106858&SearchTerms=grommets. |
| scoobydude |
Posted - 16/05/2012 : 21:04:40
Soak them in a little diesel overnight. |
All Forums
Cleaning rusty washers, screws etc....?
